My grandmother used to visit relatives in Melfi, a mid-mountain town in Basilicata in southern Italy, about twice a year: in summer and just before Christmas. I usually joined her and my grandfather in summer, but I couldn’t miss school in December, so I waited at home, daydreaming about the bags of treats she would bring back.
She returned with mozzarella: milky, flavorful little knots, nothing like the supermarket versions. There was provolone piccante, a sharp cheese I didn’t love as a child but admired for the crescent-shaped slices she brought. There would be scamorza, thick salty bread with a yellowish crumb and a dark, flour-dusted crust, bags of almonds and tiny jars of precious wild oregano.
But what I waited for in secret were my favourite cookies: calzoncelli. Whether bought at a bakery near my aunt’s house before my grandmother left or made by my grandfather’s nieces, they always came in a big bag tied with string. They were everyone’s favourite—mine, my father’s, my mother’s and, later, Claudia’s—so a bag never lasted long.
A bag of calzoncelli would be gone in days, no matter its size. One in the morning before breakfast, one after lunch, one in the afternoon with a cup of tea—often more than one. After dinner, while watching a movie on the sofa, we’d reach into the bag for another. Then came the familiar sound: the last calzoncello was missing and only crumbs remained. “Dad! You got the last one!” “Really? I’m sorry, I didn’t notice.” Sometimes I was quick enough to grab the last one and answered with the same guilty tone. We were shameless when it came to calzoncelli.
Thankfully we have a treasure in Aunt Teresa. She’s the family’s best cook, the person who brings Southern recipes to our table. A few years ago she started making calzoncelli and recently gave me a special book. I found this recipe in Le ricette di Nicoletta, a fine collection of fresh and traditional recipes from Melfi.
Calzoncelli: chocolate and almond Christmas cookies
So, what are calzoncelli? They are small bites of chocolate-and-almond heaven with a subtle hint of lemon zest. The shell should be as thin as possible—almost translucent—and plays a crucial role in the flavour balance. Made with olive oil and white wine, the dough bakes into a fragile, golden shell that cradles a moist filling. Because they are handmade, each calzoncello is unique; I’ve always loved the plump, slightly underbaked ones most of all. Beware: they are addictive.
Calzoncelli make an excellent Christmas gift. Stored in a tin or airtight container they keep for weeks; the ones I made two weeks ago are still crisp and fresh. They take a bit of time to shape neatly, but their small parcel-like appearance is perfectly festive. An edible gift says: here is my time, my care, and my affection.
Calzoncelli
Ingredients
For the dough
- 600 grams all-purpose flour
- ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
- 100 grams sugar
- 2 eggs, lightly beaten
- 100 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 200 ml dry white wine
For the filling
- 400 grams almonds, peeled and toasted
- 250 grams sugar
- Grated zest of one organic lemon
- 200 grams dark chocolate, chopped
Instructions
Make the dough
- Pour the flour onto a wooden surface and form a mound with a large well in the centre. Add the eggs, sugar and salt, then pour in the olive oil. Using a fork, start stirring from the centre, gradually incorporating flour from the edges. Continue adding the wine slowly while you combine the mixture.
- When the mixture becomes crumbly, begin kneading with your hands.
- Knead until the dough is smooth, silky and no longer sticky. Wrap in plastic and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Make the filling
- Put the almonds, sugar, lemon zest and chopped chocolate into a food processor and pulse until you obtain a smooth paste.
- Roll the paste into logs about 1 cm thick, then cut into pieces about 1½ cm long.
Assemble and bake
- Roll the dough into long, very thin sheets. You can use a rolling pin or a pasta machine; keep rolling and turning until the dough is paper-thin.
- Cut 4 cm wide strips of dough.
- Place filling pieces on the dough about 2 cm apart, wrap the dough over the filling, press gently to seal and cut between pieces with a fluted wheel or knife. Each calzoncello should look like a small raviolo.
- Arrange the calzoncelli on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
- Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F).
- Bake for 15–20 minutes, until golden.
- Remove from the oven and let cool completely.
- Store in a tin or airtight container; they keep for weeks.
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